![]() It's best to get this repair done professionally since the entire camera needs to be taken apart unless you can do it yourself and are willing to run the camera due to a disassembly error. This is very bad, and should be assumed a dead camera until you can run it in a non critical setting with a new battery reliably for 1-2 months. ![]() ![]() The usual warning on Canon when the shutter is toast is cameras continuously operate the shutter. The bad news is it's usually not something you can clear with a battery it's usually the shutter - worth a try, but don't buy a genuine pack get a good clone, to make the inevitable hurt less. If it was taken care of, it might but don't expect it to happen on a entry level body. Since these are purchased by amateurs, most of these never meet that rating due to being abused and die early. To make it worse, there's no way verify the actuation count on all of these cameras you have to have the right one with the right processor (DIGIC II or newer), or go in blind and hope it's not near the end with used. It's often a "EOL" shutter, which was only rated up to ~50k on older budget Canons like this (newer ones from the Txi line are ~100k, non "i" is still ~50k). It's a confirmed shutter failure (mechanically dead, or electrical).
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |